Decent Tortas, Skip the Cemitas, at La Herradura
In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
At New York taquerias, sandwiches are sometimes a safer bet than tacos—New York bakeries produce better bread than our tortilla factories. And at La Herradura in Astoria, a fresh, poofy torta roll makes a welcome base for a Carnitas Torta ($6). The carnitas is as juicy and as fatty as you could hope for, and if its flavor is somewhat wan, earthy black beans, salty cheese, and a swipe of mayo help. (Skip the tomato if you can, as is generally advisable.)
The equally hefty Cemitas ($7) don't work as well. The poppy seed bun wasn't especially fresh and the balance of heat, meat, and cheese in the sandwich left me wanting. Instead of a real chipotle sauce to complement the thinly pounded milanesa, the sandwich offered straight-from-the-can adobo with meat that forgot its tenderness a long time ago.
But for a torta fix if you're neaby, Herradura will do you right.