[Photographs: Robyn Lee]

Grand Appetito, one of the better slice joints in Little Italy, does surprisingly solid sandwiches. This we know. But parms and panini are one thing. Cheesesteaks, which the signage features quite prominently, are another. It turns out they succeed on that front as well.

There's nothing revelatory about their Cheesesteak with Grilled Onions ($8) topped with the cheese of your choice (we suggest Provolone). But there doesn't need to be. The thin slices of sirloin are chopped fine and intermingled well with onions that just begin to caramelize on the hot flattop. The meat is surprisingly tender given its long journey over such high heat, the tangy cheese is well melted, and an airy hero loaf gets toasted briefly to pick up a slight crust. A satisfying cheeseteak if you're craving one.

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the New York editor at Serious Eats. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

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