Slideshow: Steakcraft: A Visit to Florence Prime Meats, Home of the Newport Steak

Pizzuco in the doorway
Pizzuco in the doorway
Owner and butcher Benny Pizzuco in the doorway of Florence Prime Meats.
Florence Prime Meats
Florence Prime Meats
The West Village butcher shop has been here since 1936.
The Counter
The Counter
This is old school.
Stamp
Stamp
This decades-old brass stamp is used to pound cutlets.
Tin ceiling
Tin ceiling
The tin ceiling dates back decades.
The menu
The menu
The shell, T-bone, porterhouse, and rib steaks are all dry aged at the shop.
Dry aged primals
Dry aged primals
Left to right: short loin, rib, and strip loin.
Steakcraft in action
Steakcraft in action
The butchers work their way up through the shop, starting off with a broom and then on to deliveries before they ever handle a knife.
The meat locker
The meat locker
Pizzuco emerges from the locker with an aged rib.
Rib Innards
Rib Innards
Florence only uses prime beef.
Strip loin
Strip loin
USDA stamp
USDA stamp
Florencio
Florencio
With a strip steak.
Removing the crust
Removing the crust
The first order of business is to remove the hard exterior crust that has resulted from the dry aging.
Marbling
Marbling
The abundant marbling is evident.
Finish with the knife
Finish with the knife
After the hack saw has been used to cut the bone, a knife is used to remove the rest of the face.
Scraping the primal
Scraping the primal
Pizzuco scrapes the bone fragments off the primal before putting it away.
Exposed
Exposed
We can now see the inner flesh. This is the sirloin end of the primal—note that the tenderloin is large and round. It has tapered off completely at the other end of the primal.
Hand-cut steaks
Hand-cut steaks
Untrimmed porterhouses
Untrimmed porterhouses
Note the copious amount of kidney fat, also known as suet.
Skimming
Skimming
Using the knife's edge, Pizzuco scrapes away the shavings left from the saw blade.
Kidney fat
Kidney fat
Pizzuco notes the high quality of the kidney fat—it is pure white and flaky. This type of fat, aslso known as suet, is excellent for rendering as it retains 95% of its weight.
Trimming
Trimming
A band of fat is left on the exterior of the porterhouse to protect the meat during cooking.
The finished Porterhouse
The finished Porterhouse
Note that the "tails" are left on here.