[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

I need to say it: most pumpkin ice cream is just plain bad. Be it too sweet (or not sweet enough), overloaded with spice, or icy thanks to its load of pumpkin pulp, your typical scoop is far from the best way to get a taste of the orange stuff.

But there are some noteworthy exceptions, like Il Laboratorio's vegetal, almost savory pumpkin, and now A. B. Biagi, where the pumpkin gelato is pleasantly sweet, incredibly creamy, and pure baked pumpkin in flavor. Gelato man Antonio Biagi makes a hybrid base that's part pumpkin sorbet and part gelato, which results in a smooth scoop with clear, intense baked pumpkin flavor. Some nutmeg adds spicy depth to the gelato, but only enough to highlight the pumpkin's brighter flavors lost during baking and freezing.

The fall menu also includes Cones and Cream, a sweet cream gelato flavored by—yes!—sugar cones, and studded with soft chunks of the same. The flavor is as magical and childlike as you may imagine: sweet, but as it should be.

A.B. Biagi

Editors' Pick

A.B. Biagi

  • Nolita

235 Elizabeth St Prince and Houston New York NY 10012 212-219-8094

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