[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

I wouldn't call Dave and Tony's Salumeria in Astoria a "secret" sandwich shop, but they don't shout their heros from the rooftops either. Ask for one and they'll direct you to a shelf of fresh bread from Astoria Bakery and ask what you want on it.

I'd recommend the mozzarella, which is made in-store. Though not incredibly tender or flavorful, it's quite fresh, clean and milky with a slight chewiness. The mildness goes well with some thinly sliced prosciutto di Parma, hot sopressata, and spicy peppers (request a generous amount of those) for a sandwich that balances salt and fat with some pickled heat. Prices vary by bread and filling; this combination will run you $9.

As for your bread options, ask if they have the sesame seed-topped semolina heros in stockā€”the same excellent ones you'll find at Rosario's. The bread in the photo above makes a good sandwich, a little dense with a crackly crust, but Astoria Bakery's crustier, pointy-ended rolls may be even better.

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

Dave and Tony's Salumeria

Dave and Tony's Salumeria

  • Astoria

3518 30th Ave b/n 35th and 36th Sts New York NY 11103 718-728-4850

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