Slideshow: See How the Sausage Gets Made at Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria

Bernardo Flores, Master Butcher
Bernardo Flores, Master Butcher
Taking out the pig
Taking out the pig
Every few weeks, Il Buco receives a half dozen or so split hogs weighing over 150 pounds each.
Cutting
Cutting
The bigger the saw, the better.
Removing the trotters
Removing the trotters
The feet are given to the cooking staff for use in terrines and head cheese.
Pork pile
Pork pile
The various cuts from all the pigs are separated out in the cutting room for their future uses. Most of the bellies seen here will end up as pancetta.
Ribs
Ribs
The rib cages are set aside and used for the restaurant's family meal.
Coppa, salting
Coppa, salting
Muscles from the shoulder are removed to become coppa.
Salting coppa
Salting coppa
Coarse salt is the seasoning of choice here.
Pork chunks
Pork chunks
The rest of the shoulder is cut into smaller pieces to be used for salumi.
Fatback chunks
Fatback chunks
Some of the fatback is cured for lardo, but most of it is paired with the shoulder meat for the salumi. Fatback is useful for fine-tuning a sausage's fat content, one of the essentials for good sausage making.
Weigh in
Weigh in
The pork is weighed and batched in the proportions that the salumi recipes call for.
Fat weigh-in
Fat weigh-in
Grinding
Grinding
Firmer chilled meat passes through the grinder more easily, keeping its fat intact.
Out the grinder
Out the grinder
The cure
The cure
Bernardo assembles salts and seasoning for the cure.
On it goes
On it goes
Meat mixing
Meat mixing
The dry cure ingredients, as well as wine and garlic, are initially mixed in by hand.
Mechanical meat mixing
Mechanical meat mixing
The seasoned meat is then put in a large stand mixer which evenly distributes the cure and seasoning as well as emulsifies the meat into a firmer mass. Sausage casings keep meat contained, but mixing like this encourages the meat's protein to adhere better to itself.
Thoroughly mixed meat
Thoroughly mixed meat
The meat is mixed until it's a little sticky but not quite a paste.
Sausage stuffing
Sausage stuffing
The emulsified meat is pushed into casings and rolled together.
Sausage coil
Sausage coil
Hole punch
Hole punch
Small holes are pricked into the sausage to remove air bubbles.
Larger casings
Larger casings
Larger salumi, like the finocciona, seen here, use a thicker bung casing.
Fresh finocciona, tied
Fresh finocciona, tied
Finocchiona sliced
Finocchiona sliced
Finocchiona on display
Finocchiona on display
Ready for grateful world.
Cacciatorino on display
Cacciatorino on display