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If expenses are simply folded into salary, the assumption is that critics might better consider value. But then you've got the critic conflating their review budget with the rest of their lives. Do you really want me thinking, "I should probably review Charlie Bird or Estela, since they've been getting a lot of talk and the food looks really interesting; and since neither is a cheap place, it'd be a service to readers to let them know whether either restaurant is worth a visit. But I'm going to Costa Rica next week and it'd really be nice to have an extra $150 in my pocket for a hotel upgrade. Okay, Chinatown again."
Nothing wrong with reviewing the occasional Chinatown spot—we do that a lot here—but what about a world that only reviews cheap restaurants?
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Previously on Ask the Critic
- On Restaurant Critics and Expense Accounts
- What Celebrity Chef Restaurants Are Really Worth It?
- What Can I Bring to a Dinner Party?
- 'Real' Chinese Food in NYC
- What 'New York' Food Souvenirs Can I Bring Home?
- Can I Do Tasting Menus with My Food Intolerances?
- Best Date Night Restaurants in NYC
- 'Good Steak and Good Whiskey'
- Quiet Restaurant for a Goodbye Dinner
- Are Cronuts Worth the Line?
- Where to Eat Lunch in Soho, Best Italian Combos
- UWS Date Spots, Franklin Avenue and Crown Heights
- Non-Alcoholic Cocktails; Where to Eat in Ditmas Park and South Slope
- Group Dinner Questions
- Where to Eat in Downtown Brooklyn, Best NYC Pizza