The Lady M. mille crepe cake with its twenty perfectly aligned layers has enjoyed a loyal—almost cult-like—following in New York for many years. So it's only natural that eventually, a restaurant would come along and offer their own version. To their credit, Cherry restaurant's Ginger Mille Crepe Cake ($11) seems like it was inspired by Lady M.'s original rather than trying to be an exact copy.
In order to get the most enjoyment out of a mille crepe cake, the layers should be soft and pliable. You should be able to cut through the entire cake with a dull fork without resistance or cream spilling out the sides. Cherry's crepe cake not only passes these tests, but also adds a few signature elements of its own.
For starters, Cherry uses an ultra-light ginger mousse filling with a prominent bite. Each crepe has nicely browned edges, indicating that they were made individually rather than cut from one giant crepe.
But the most successful innovation is a thin creme brûlée-like crust of caramelized sugar on top of the cake. This light, crunchy top is not only visually pleasing, but provides the perfect texture contrast against the soft crepe and mousse layers.