Sugar Rush

Your daily dose of something sweet.

Sugar Rush: Cardamom Cake at Taboonette

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[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Is there anything you can't do, Taboonette? Lovely $5 breakfast sandwiches, some of the best pork we've had for under $10, clever treatments of squid and vegetables—these are the reasons why I keep coming back.

So of course the casual sandwich spot does dessert well too, and its demurely named Homemade Cake ($3) is definitely worth an order. It's a substantial slice of a dense, buttery cake spiced with a little rose water and a whole lot of cardamom, its perfume loud and clear in every bite, with flecks of the spice nestled in the crumbs.

The mildly sweet cake doesn't need a glaze, but the thin, tart, lime-flavored one it gets is most welcome. It adds just enough brightness and textural contrast to keep you going back for more.

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

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