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[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Fu Run in Flushing is best known for its Muslim Lamb Chop, but I'd argue that their fish is just as good—as tender as can be, receptive to the simple but bold flavors of Dongbei-style Chinese cooking. You can have fish there whole and drenched in sweet chili sauce, in battered nugget form, and also like the above, poached in chili oil with herbs and sweet spices.

It's called Sliced Fish in Hot Pepper ($12.95), though it's one of the milder dishes with chili at Fu Run. You taste the peppers' sweetness more than their heat, bolstered by star anise and coriander steeped into the slippery, oily broth. There are bolder dishes on the menu here, but this subtle one, taken with plenty of rice to soak up that broth, makes a worthy side order.

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

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