We eat (and love) a lot more than sandwiches at Serious Eats, so in the spirit of A Sandwich a Day, here's Eat This Now, a quick look at food worth sharing. —The Mgmt.

20130614-cevapi.jpg

[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Note: This venue is now closed.

The saving grace of middling burek is some solid grilled meat. While I wouldn't call the Balkan pies at Bensonhurst's Burektore Illyria bad by any means, I'm not in any rush to go back for them. But I would return for the cevapi ($7 for five, $12 for ten), especially as an appetizer for pizza at near-ish by L & B.

You can think of cevapi as a cross between kebab and sausage. It's usually made from beef and is relatively finely ground; it boasts a sausage-y bounciness, too. But there's no skin, and the meat is fresh, not cured or pre-salted. I've mostly seen the stubby fingers available in orders of five or ten, which is a little creepy if you think about it too much, so don't.

The best cevapi taste simply of beef, loads of garlic, and the smoky char of a grill. Illyria's succeed on all counts, juicy but not too fatty, with a balance of beef and garlic flavors. They come with cucumber, tomato, fresh onion, and ajvar, a creamy roasted red pepper paste that's a little pungent, a little sweet, and a little hot. Stuff your favorite components into some of the shop's fresh bread and you have the makings of a very fine south Brooklyn sandwich.

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

Comments

Comments can take up to a minute to appear - please be patient!

Previewing your comment: