[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

The orange-scented samali ($5) at Artopolis is everything I love about Greek sweets: strongly flavored with citrus oil or spice, moistened but not killed by sugar syrup, texturally interesting and unusual. The tender but coarse-crumbed semolina cake is steeped in orange-flavored syrup. It's delicate, not overly sweet, and a fitting foil to the bakery's strong Greek coffee.

A lot of the pastry love at Artopolis goes to their phyllo pastries, and justly so, but give this unassuming cake a try. It's an undercover winner.


Agora Plaza, 23-18 31st Street, Astoria NY 11105 (map)

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.


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