In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.

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[Photograph: Craig Cavallo]

Ramps show up first. Rhubarb hits menus soon after, then soft shell crabs show up, as they've done at Certé in Midtown. The lunch counter introduced the Chip & Crab Dip sandwich ($8.95) yesterday as their sandwich special for the month of May.

After they're coated in beer batter, the crabs are deep fried for the sandwich. The batter is thin, and lightly covers the crab, so they crisp up quickly and get pulled while the meat is still tender and juicy. Hot sauce and remoulade come on the side; the hot sauce is slightly overpowering, but the remoulade provides the tangy, salty, fatty accompaniment that fried seafood benefits from so well. The only other companions are a soft, chewy potato roll and solitary piece of bibb lettuce, which provides a refreshing crunch a subtle sweetness that works well with the delicate crab meat.

The combination of tender, crunchy soft shells isn't for everyone, but if you're weary of the crab's texture, give Certe's reasonably priced, simple preparation a try.

Certé

20 West 55th Street, New York, NY 10019 (map)
212-397-2020
certenyc.com

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