The cream-stuffed desserts are my personal favorites at Cannelle Patisserie, but this Pear Tart ($2.50) gives them a run for their money. Because the pastry base isn't really a tart crust—it's shortbread.

Spoon-tender, falls-apart-from-breathing-on-it shortbread, that is, rich with butter and light on sweetness. A lobe of poached pear rests on top, delicate and a little wobbly, also not too sweet. Take a bite and all you'll have to think about is "butter" and "pear." Which is exactly how it should be.

Cannelle Patisserie

7559 31st Avenue, Jackson Heights, NY 11370 (map)

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

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