Slideshow: Spirited Sichuan, No Apologies, at Lao Cheng Du in Flushing

Spicy Chicken with Hot Pepper ($14)
Spicy Chicken with Hot Pepper ($14)
Fried bits of chicken legs and wings frolicking in a ball pit of dried chilies. The chicken is bone-in, and it's crisp but also moistened with a faintly sweet glaze. You take your time with it, picking the bones out of every tender piece, prolonging the burn as you do so. It's memorably delicious.
Spicy Radish, Peanut, and Bean Curd ($5)
Spicy Radish, Peanut, and Bean Curd ($5)
This should be in New York bars under penalty of law: tiny cubes of chewy marinated tofu jumbled with peanuts and crunchy pickled radish in a thin but incendiary sauce of chili oil. You'll want to stop eating once the dizziness kicks in, but go ahead and try.
Sausage
Sausage
A good 90% fat, incredibly tender and juicy with a bright citrus heat.
Fried Fishies ($7)
Fried Fishies ($7)
These are kept at the cold appetizer counter and can be ordered by the piece. They're dense and meaty, glistening with chili oil.
Asparagus with Yibin Veggie Buds ($12)
Asparagus with Yibin Veggie Buds ($12)
It's bolstered by nubbins of ground pork that have carried some lard along for the ride. The crisp stalks take well to the floral-funky flavor of the pickled vegetables, which have been dry-fried into something even meatier than the pork.
Diced Rabbit with Red Chili Sauce ($8)
Diced Rabbit with Red Chili Sauce ($8)
A pile of peanuts, scallions, and chilled poached rabbit, riddled with bones that force you to slow down and appreciate picking it apart for morsels of meat.
Spicy Minced Pork with Vermicelli ($10)
Spicy Minced Pork with Vermicelli ($10)
Cooked dry and light on the heat, it's appealing in a bland kind of way. With incendiary dishes all around the table, this mild dish of chewy-tender noodles helps soak up the spice.
Bean Curd with Spicy Minced Pork ($10)
Bean Curd with Spicy Minced Pork ($10)
More savory-meaty than hot and oily, this rendition of mapo tofu is a satisfying stew over rice. Order it to accentuate your table; it's not a centerpiece.
Whole Fried Fish with Hot Sauce
Whole Fried Fish with Hot Sauce
Pretty to look at, but one of the restaurant's few true missteps. The not-crisp-enough tilapia is unimpressive and the sauce is blandly sweet.