A Sandwich a Day

A new sandwich every day.

A Sandwich a Day: Veal Tongue at El Rawsheh

In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.

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[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Take a bite without knowing and you might guess it's lamb shoulder, subtly gamey and deeply tender with soft striations of fat. But there's a darker, more mineral quality to the meat, a funk that, come your second bite, you realize could only come from tongue. This is one of the more approachable applications of the muscle out there.

The wrap ($6) is balanced by sharp juicy pickles, both the turnips and tiny cucumbers that frequently accompany Lebanese sandwiches, and for an extra 50 cents you can get a welcome squirt of tart yogurt to round out the meat.

With its lackluster pita and some underwhelming grilled items, El Rawsheh is not on the top of my list for Lebanese sandwiches in Astoria—Homemade Falafel and Cedars rank higher. But it has the best tongue—Lebanese or otherwise—I've enjoyed in sandwich form in some time, and is a good stop to know on Steinway Street.

El Rawsheh

25-48 Steinway Street, Astoria, NY 11103 (map)
718-267-6222

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

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