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[Terrible iPhone Photo: Carey Jones]

The deli's name notwithstanding, I generally prefer the pastrami or corned beef to the brisket at David's Brisket House. (I mean, in general, I prefer pastrami or corned beef to brisket, too.) Unless the brisket is turned into a "Brooklyn Cheesesteak" ($8).

Bits of brisket, juicy and beefy and heavily seasoned, are tossed on the heat with peppers and onions, getting that everything-works-together cheesesteak quality, where the vegetables really just taste like more beef. It's piled in a roll with American cheese that melts down into every nook and cranny. It's a gut bomb of a sandwich, sure, and not the prettiest I've bitten into recently. But it's hard to deny the pleasures of meat and cheese this greasily bound together, and at $8, it's a deal of a belly-filler.

David's Brisket House

533 Nostrand Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11216 (map)
718-789-1155
(Doors closed Fri, noon-2pm, for prayer service)

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