Serious eaters, lets talk goat. For too many Americans, this fifth estate of mammalian protein remains a strange and unfamiliar proposition. Even in a progressive city like New York, it remains largely a curiosity outside the immigrant communities where it is a staple. Those less inclined to indulge in goat's earthy and gamey delights will dismiss it as "barnyardy." Okay, fair: when it comes to flavor, it's no secret that goat struts its stuff.
We aren't here to deny that—in fact, it's one of the reasons we like goat in the first place. Only a few years ago, trend spotters were stamping the "next big thing" title on their favorite plate of braised goat shank. It looks like we're still a few years away from that being the case, but in the meantime, who cares? You don't need to be hip to eat goat, and it doesn't need to be pigeonholed as a novelty meat without versatility.
Goat can be the centerpiece of a feast, an accent of spicy parotta kothu, the makings of a damn good curry (Eastside and Westside), and—as we noticed when doing our research—a real fine gravy. I'm going to get it out of way right here and now and declare that goat is at its best when liquified. You can get seriously deep and rich broths out of it, broths that will have you asking what you've been missing all your life, with most of the funk cooked out to boot. I don't mean to beg, but can we please see more goat-based gravies and consommés at our fancy restaurants? (Some consommé de chivo at Empellon, perhaps...)
But I digress.
Without further delay, we present to you the "Serious Eats Beginner's Guide To Goat In New York City."
Full disclaimer: this is not a definitive list of every single goat dish worth hustling for in New York. Rather, consider it a comprehensive launching point from which to begin or expand your exploration of the delights of goat in our city's restaurants.
To fulfill that aim, we've covered the basics—dishes like goat curry and barbacoa (for which we list multiple options)—and then some, providing a thoroughly globe trotting selection. We like goat, as does most of the rest of the world, and we want you to like it as much as we do.
Whether you want nouveau Massaman curry in Manhattan, homemade Murican pasta with ground goat in Brooklyn, or Peruvian braised goat shank in Queens, we've got you covered. We're talking 18 dishes and all five boroughs, here. Who's ready to eat them all?
African & European
- Goat Roti at Ali's Trinidadian Roti Shop (Bed-Stuy)
- Goat Tassot at Kombit (Elmhurst)
- Curry Goat from Jamaican Dutchy (Midtown)
- Curry Goat at The Islands
- Cabrito a la Norterna at El Anzuelo Fino (Jackson Heights and Woodhaven)
- Barbacoa at Tacos Morelos (East Village, Williamsburg, Jackson Heights)
- Consommé de Chivo at Tamales Ebenezer (Mott Haven)
- Birria at Tacos El Bronco (Sunset Park)
- Seco de Chivo at El Guayaquileno (Corona and Jackson Heights)
- Goat Lamprie at San Rasa (Staten Island)
- Kothu Parrota with Mutton at Anjappar (Murray Hill)
- Goat Curry Thali at Woodside Cafe (Woodside)
- Bhutan at Woodside Cafe (Woodside)
About the author: Chris Crowley is the author of the Bronx Eats column. Follow him on Twitter, if you'd like. In person, your best bet is the window seat at Neerob, or waiting in line at the Lechonera La Piranha trailer.