The specialty here is pork barbecue, and that's what we recommend you base your meal on.
Pork Combination Platter ($89.95)
While your server may spew some sort of questionable facts at you about the physics of cooking on crystal and how it keeps the pork extra juicy or more flavorful or something like that, the important thing to notice is the pile of fresh kimchi they pile onto the bottom of the tilted slab. As the pork cooks—you'll get thin slices of raw belly that hit the slab still frozen along with thicker slabs or fresh belly—rendering fat drips down and collects in the kimchi, flavoring it.
This order serves three to four. Smaller orders are also available.
The thin slices of belly are still frozen when they hit the grill.
The galbi doesn't take on too much color or crust—a stylistic choice, it seems, designed to emphasize the sweet delicacy of the beef over its grilling process.
Yook Hwe ($23.95)
A sizable beef tartare where the meat is cut into udon-like strips and topped with an egg yolk, which you mix in along with shreds of crunchy, sweet Asian pear. It's a study in the subtler side of Korean cuisine, where mild sweetness and richness are carefully aligned with cool crunch.
While none are especially remarkable, they're free, and all offer nice contrasting bites with the rich pork. The ones to reach for first: mild, effervescent kimchi; sweet and crunchy simmered lotus root; silky, well chilled eggplant, and mayo-dressed potato salad.
Godol Bibimbap ($14.95)
The stone bowl rice develops a slight crust, and its mild seasonings take well to the funky-sweet chili sauce on the side.
Duck Barbecue ($23.95)
Though unique and tasty in theory, it doesn't cook long enough on the grill to properly render its thick bands of fat. The rounds of duck breast come out curled, chewy, and a little scorched.
Neng Myun ($11.95 to $14.95)
Go for the ones with chilled broth and/or spicy sauce, and don't bother paying a premium for the raw skate.
Dumplings ($11.95 for 8)
They have flaccid skins and unremarkable fillings. Pass.
Hanjoo is nicer looking than most of its St. Marks neighbors.