[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Beurre & Sel, Dorie Greenspan's consistently amazing new cookie company, is doing a Valentine's pop-up at Mizu Hair Salon from Monday through Friday next week, and they're baking some new cookies just for the occasion.

Smoky Hearts ($1 each) combine bitter cocoa shortbread with chunks of smoked almonds. They're only lightly sweet with a sandy crumb. Mulled Wine Jammers ($14 for 8) are a riff on the popular jam- and streusel-topped sabl├ęs normally on the menu; these come with dried cherries, cranberries, and raisins softened in wine for a delicate fruit sweetness that plays against the cornmeal streusel topping.

But our favorites of the lot are decidedly the Coffee Cardamom cookies ($14 for 14), which lack all the sticky sweetness of more common gingerbread. These slightly salted numbers have a dense, chewy crumb, with an aftertaste that's a dead-ringer for a cup of spiced Turkish coffee. Though the other two cookies are specific to the pop-up market, these will be available the Beurre & Sel's Essex Street and La Marqueta locations afterward, as well as on their website for nationwide orders.

Beurre & Sel at Mizu Hair Salon

505 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10022 (map)

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.


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