Serious Eats: New York
A Sandwich a Day: Soprano at Bowery Eats
In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
Next time you're in the market for a mortar and pestle, a chopping block, and a tasty sandwich, head to Bowery Kitchen in Chelsea Market. To our recent surprise, tucked inside the store, surrounded by an array of cooking supplies and equipment, is Bowery Eats. It's a glorified sandwich counter, not unlike bodegas around town that offer a menu of sandwich options numbered 1 through whatever. But the difference here is a higher quality, one that is defined by the DIY vein that runs through the market.
Take #15 for example, the Soprano ($9.75). Renditions have appeared in corner stores citywide with names like "Godfather" and "Wise Guy." At Bowery Eats, their choice of Italian meats is prosciutto and salami. They're thin cold cuts, so they don't offer much in the way of bounty, but Virginia ham generously adds to the sandwich's heft. Slightly sweet sun dried tomatoes contrast the fatty, porky meats. Provolone's sharpness helps balance the deal, and a sharp vinaigrette that's worked its way into the nooks and crannies of the bread lends a tartness to every bite. Some of the bread's crumb is dug out before the sandwich is built, so each bite is more meaty than bready, which is nice, because all those great flavors hit that much faster.