Fried crisp and greaseless with shishito peppers and a compellingly spicy chipotle sauce.
Peekytoe crab rolls ($10)
Buttery brioche buns with crab meat, treated simply in lemon, mayo, chives, and a sparing amount of Tabasco. Like a good lobster roll, the flavor's all crab with a few smart accents, not a crab salad that loses the seafood itself.
Pickle plate ($11)
Not a bunch of vegetables fished out of the same brine, but treated on their own: caraway carrots, ginger turnips, turmeric cauliflower, garlicky yellow wax beans and haricots verts. The hard-boiled eggs, pickled in beet brine, were a particularly nice touch.
With broccoli rabe, nubs of pork sausage, and chickpeas, it's as worthy of attention as anything else on the menu.
It's juicy enough, well-seasoned, topped smartly with cheddar and caramelized onions and applewood-smoked bacon. But it's not a burger to make you stand up and take notice.