Slideshow: Essential Dumplings of Flushing, NYC

Pork and Fennel Dumplings at Best North Dumpling
Pork and Fennel Dumplings at Best North Dumpling
Best North Dumpling occupies a narrow hallway-format mall, and has just a few chairs for its two tables. Their menu of boiled dumplings includes "Pork and Fennel," where fennel is really a mistranslation of dill. The skins are soft and a little on the thick side; they give way to very tender fatty pork perfumed with fragrant dill. The combination makes for a dumpling you could almost call refreshing.

Best North Dumpling: 41-42A Main Street, Flushing, NY 11355 (map)

[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Best North Dumpling
Best North Dumpling
The menu hanging over the small kitchen.

Best North Dumpling: 41-42A Main Street, Flushing, NY 11355 (map)

[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Pork and Leek Pan-Fried Dumplings at Sliced Noodles
Pork and Leek Pan-Fried Dumplings at Sliced Noodles
The potstickers (guo tie) are prepared in a special way here: they're placed in an asterisk pattern, then steamed, then fried as the water evaporates from the pan. Steaming loosens some of the wrappers' starch, which forms a thin shell on the bottom of the pan, connecting the eight dumplings into one giant frisbee. Beyond the remarkable crust, the pork filling is exceptionally juicy, and the skins, if oily, are pleasantly taut. Order them for the visuals, but keep eating them for some of the best fried dumplings in New York.

Sliced Noodles: Basement food court in the New World Mall, 136-20 Roosevelt Avenue, Flushing, NY 11354 (map)

[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

"Three Kinds Dumplings" at Chinese-Korean Noodles and Dumpling
These are the simplest dumpling offerings at the stall, housing just pork, shrimp, and chives. "Four Kinds" adds cabbage, but just dilutes the whole package. The skins have a little chew, the pork is well seasoned, and the shrimp are crisp. But the real kicker is the slightly sweet chili sauce you're given for dipping. I pour it on top of my dumplings to better let it mingle with their ample juices.

Chinese-Korean Noodle and Dumpling: First floor of the Flushing Mall, 133-33 39th Avenue, Flushing, NY 11354 (map); 718-358-1478

[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Chinese-Korean Noodles and Dumpling
Chinese-Korean Noodles and Dumpling
You can find this stall on the first floor of the Flushing Mall, not in the basement food court.

Chinese-Korean Noodle and Dumpling: First floor of the Flushing Mall, 133-33 39th Avenue, Flushing, NY 11354 (map); 718-358-1478

[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Wontons in Hot Oil at White Bear
Wontons in Hot Oil at White Bear
Perhaps the most notorious dumplings in Flushing, and arguably still the best. White Bear's delicate pork and greens wontons with not-that-spicy chili oil, fresh scallions, and preserved vegetables pack an impressive amount of tastiness into a small package. Beneath all the condiments you'll find simple dumplings made well: mild meat, fragrant herbs, and feathery wonton skin that picks up just enough chili oil with each bite.

White Bear: 135-02 Roosevelt Avenue, Flushing, NY 11354 (map); 718-961-2322

[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Pork and Leek Dumplings at Yoz Shanghai
Pork and Leek Dumplings at Yoz Shanghai
Yoz Shanghai is a one-hit wonder—their guo tie, wontons, and soup dumplings are all skippable—but these boiled pork and leek dumplings are fantastic. The filling is equal parts pork and vegetable, and pork takes the back seat to let all that green flavor shine through, adding just enough richness to balance out the onion funk.

Yoz Shanghai: First floor of the Golden Shopping Mall, 41-28 Main Street, Flushing, NY 11355 (map); 718-321-2663

[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Yoz Shanghai
Yoz Shanghai
Yoz Shanghai is on the first floor of the Golden Shopping Mall on Main Street. The stall is on the right side of the hallway off Main.

Yoz Shanghai: First floor of the Golden Shopping Mall, 41-28 Main Street, Flushing, NY 11355 (map); 718-321-2663

[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Lamb and Green Squash Dumplings at Tianjin Dumpling House
Lamb and Green Squash Dumplings at Tianjin Dumpling House
"I make up my own dumplings based on my customer's needs," Lily of Tianjin Dumpling House tells us. That may explain the uniqueness of her boiled lamb dumplings with subtle summer squash sweetness. All of Tianjin's dumplings have delicate skins ready to burst at slight provocation, but this variety does the most justice to that dough with fall-apart tender lamb and a balance of sweet, savory, and gamey flavors. The dumplings are enhanced, not overwhelmed, by a touch of the house garlic sauce laced with sesame oil.

Tianjin Dumpling House: Basement of the Golden Shopping Mall, 41-28 Main Street, Flushing, NY 11355 (map)

[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Spicy & Sour Lamb Dumplings at Biang!
Spicy & Sour Lamb Dumplings at Biang!
While we love pretty much everything at Biang!, these dumplings are especially fine: they have forthright lamb-y integrity and approach soup dumpling levels of juiciness. Six of them come swimming in a sauce of black vinegar, chili oil, cumin, and cilantro: sour, spicy, deviously aromatic.

Biang!: 41-10 Main Street, Flushing, NY 11355 (map); 718-888-7713; biang-nyc.com

[Photograph: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Biang!
Biang!
One of the few restaurants on this list, Biang! is the flagship of the Xi'an Famous Foods empire. Read our full review.

Biang!: 41-10 Main Street, Flushing, NY 11355 (map); 718-888-7713; biang-nyc.com

[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Small Wonton Soup at Lao Wang Ji
Small Wonton Soup at Lao Wang Ji
The hallmark of "small wontons" is paper-thin dough surrounding a tiny nub of meat. They're more a textural experience than anything else, with folds of wonton skin slithering down your throat in a stream of hot broth. Lao Wang Ji nails that texture, and their chicken soup is a fine thing to boot: not too salty with real chicken flavor. Would that all chicken noodle soup could taste as good as this.

Lao Wang Ji: First floor of the Golden Shopping Mall, 41-28 Main Street, Flushing, NY 11355 (map)

[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Pork and Leek Dumplings at My Sweet Home Dumpling
Pork and Leek Dumplings at My Sweet Home Dumpling
Update 11/22/2013: This stall is now closed.

Dumplings at My Sweet Home are made to order. That doesn't mean boiled or fried when you ask; that means that when you order, the dough is rolled, the dumplings are stuffed, and only then cooked. That means you'll be waiting a few minutes longer for them, but they're worth the wait. The wrappers are delicate and exceptionally fresh-tasting, with a slight resiliency akin to rolled pasta. Fish is a popular filling, but so is pork and leek, and that's your better option: the meat is loosely packed and light, so the ample juice runs freely. These dumplings taste especially clean, and they don't rely on fat for flavor. Order them boiled, not fried, to better preserve those attributes.

My Sweet Home Dumpling: 136-76 Roosevelt Avenue, Flushing, NY 11354 (map); 718-461-0201

[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

My Sweet Home Dumpling
My Sweet Home Dumpling
My Sweet Home lies at the back of a bakery, though their sign adorns the front awning. It appears to be run by a couple without additional staff, and as such is sometimes closed on holidays.

My Sweet Home Dumpling: 136-76 Roosevelt Avenue, Flushing, NY 11354 (map); 718-461-0201

[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Wonton Noodle Soup at Sifu Chio
Wonton Noodle Soup at Sifu Chio
No individual element of the wonton noodle soups at Sifu Chio is exceptional, but they all come together for an especially satisfying dish of dumplings, noodles, and rice wine-spiked chicken broth. The best of the dumplings combine pork, shrimp, and watercress in a plump package with a very thin skin. The meat is left in large enough chunks that you get a genuine chance to taste it before making your way to the bouncy noodles, which are slicked with mild chicken soup. Stray greens add pleasant crunch.

Sifu Chio: 40-09 Prince Street, Flushing, NY 11354 (map); 718-888-9295

[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]