[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

The Flushing Mall's days are numbered, and the food court shows it. The space, which only dates back to early 2011, has been promised to new development, and vendors are emptying out fast. Xi'an Famous Foods, one of the anchors of the food court, is long gone.

But the doom and gloom and smaller crowds haven't discouraged Diverse Dim Sum from moving into the lower level food court. While we can't recommend everything at this stall (the pork soup dumplings, despite reports I've heard to the contrary, were wan and weak*), I'm all about this Sliced Beef Sandwich Cake ($4). It's neither a sandwich nor a cake, but really a beef- and greens-stuffed roll made with a flaky pancake-like dough.

* Perhaps the crab and pork fare better. Any reports from those who've tried them recently?

That's some surprisingly tender beef inside, meaty and rich beyond the soy sauce it's cooked with, and the greens retain some crunch to go along with their spicy kick. The pancake is a little greasier than you may like, but plenty flaky, and as with much other dim sum, a little oil on the fingers can do the body good.

Diverse Dim Sum

In the Flushing Mall Food Court (basement level)
13333 39th Avenue, Flushing NY 11354 (b/n Lawrence Avenue and Prince Street; map)

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.


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