Roasted bone marrow covered in tongues of sea urchin, cubes of potato crisped up in clarified butter, a Meyer lemon aïoli, and micro celery greens, served with slices of grilled sourdough bread. "How do you like the bread?" asks Harold. "We make the starter and bake it ourselves, along with the pretzel rolls."
Banquettes accented in red leather line the windows in both sections of the restaurant. The strikingly patterned wall-paper is all over the place, like a slightly more refined version of the busy wallpaper that lines the walls of his Kin Shop.
Cotechino with Lentils & Black Pepper Agrodulce ($12)
"This one started as a verbal special, but it did well, so we kept it." The pork cotechino is a salalmi-like stuffed sausage that's cooked fresh, sliced, seared, and glazed with a sweet and sour sauce, topped with a shredded cabbage salad. Lentils are the traditional accompaniment. "This is real Italian New Years food," says Harold. "But it's good year-round."
The main dining room is dominated by three semicircular plush booths and a bar that seats about 10.
"I like necks," says the chef. "They're perfect for braising." Here, the lamb necks get braised in a mixture of white wine and veal stock flavored with juniper and caraway, and is served on buttery mashed rutabega with whole roasted carrots and a red cabbage sauerkraut. "We make that kraut like kimchi—pickling the cabbage in salted water, you know? It gets cooked down with red wine and vinegar. A bit of caraway and mustard."
The Marrow occupies a narrow corner space a block away from The Spotted Pig, who they don't see as competition. For now, Beverage Director Jill Roberts says with a smile, "we're just hoping to get some of their spillover traffic!"
Pan-Fried Duck Schnitzel
"These are my grandmother's spaetzle," says Dieterle of the tiny quark-based dumplings that come fried crisp and golden brown on the side of the plate. "Ok, she didn't fry hers in duck fat," he adds with a wink.
The duck schnitzel, which Dieterle says is easily the most popular item on the menu, comes pan-fried and served with a dill flavored potato and cucumber salad, a lemon, and a fruit compote made with dried wolfberries cooked down with honey and cranberry juice.
Ginger Stout Cake ($10)
Pastry Chef Ginger Fisher serves a half dozen desserts, largely based on German and Italian classics like Berliner doughnuts and ricotta tortas. A Ginger Stout Cake comes served with roasted pears, a stout syrup, and honey ice cream.
Apple Hand Pie
Apple-filled turnovers served hot with spiced caramel and quark ice cream.
Dieterle in the Kitchen
Chef Dieterle in the semi-open kitchen at The Marrow.