Gallery: Chez Sardine: Gonzo Japanese from the Fedora Crew

Breakfast Pancakes ($15)
Breakfast Pancakes ($15)

Light potato purée pancakes layered with bits of raw fish, with salmon roe and yogurt to round out the dish.

Miso-maple salmon head ($12)
Miso-maple salmon head ($12)

When it's on the table it commands all of your attention. It's as much adventure as plated dish, prompting a solid fifteen minutes of excited chopstick-poking and guaranteed conversation. Order this.

Midnight in Her Eyes ($13)
Midnight in Her Eyes ($13)

A play on a Manhattan, with Rittenhouse rye, amaro Montenegro, fresh lemon, and Bartels's cherry hazelnut bitters—an accent that's elusive and intriguing, rather than distracting.

Beef tongue sushi ($4)
Beef tongue sushi ($4)

With ponzu and thinly slivered jalapeño.

Caviar and butter toast ($18)
Caviar and butter toast ($18)

Why the massive serving? "When I eat caviar," says Brunet-Benkritly, "I feel like I should be eating a lot of it. Not just four eggs on top of an oyster." Caviar-lovers, go for it. I didn't know I could eat my fill of caviar, but this buttered Sullivan Street toast did it.

B-Side Records ($14)
B-Side Records ($14)

Light and lively enough to drink alongside the whole meal. It's Banks 7-Year golden rum with Combier, demerara syrup, fresh lime, bitters, and ginger beer over the top.

Chopped beef with sea urchin ($7)
Chopped beef with sea urchin ($7)
Interior
Interior

Another tiny Stulman restaurant, though the windows help it feel less cramped than it could.