[Photograph: Craig Cavallo]

It's been a while since we've had a different offering from Tiny's Giant Sandwich Shop. The Halloumi Cheese Sandwich ($6 small pictured, $9 large) put an end to the drought and reminded us why the Lower East Side haunt is such a favorite.

The crunchy semolina hero is firm and dense, but not to the point that it wrecks havoc on the roof of your mouth. And it's a full-flavored sandwich that doesn't shy away from salt and fat. Halloumi cheese and grilled eggplant prove to be substantial replacements for any protein, and the crisp snap delivered by a handful of pickles adds a bright crunch to the whole deal. The real kicker may be the briny olive spread on top that adds brightness and depth all at once. It's a rewarding combination of ingredients that packs a maximum amount of flavor into every bite. If vegetarian sandwiches could win Heismans, this would get our vote.

Tiny's Giant

129 Rivington Street, New York, NY 10002 (map)
212-228-4919
tinysgiantnyc.com