A Sandwich a Day: An Elevated Gyro at Cafe Supreme in Jamaica, Queens
In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
Unless you're serving jury duty or catching the railroad or AirTrain, you probably don't have many reasons to visit this stretch of Sutphin Boulevard in Jamaica. But if you're here, and you have an hour to explore, you can do well for yourself: Salvadoran pupusas (just okay, but nourishing), African peanut soup (blazingly hot, beguiling but tasty), and a Turkish take on a Gyro ($6.99) from Cafe Supreme.
Despite laying claim to one of the more generic names in New York restaurants, Cafe Supreme has several clues suggesting Turkish ownership: that white sauce is called cacik and tastes decidedly like yogurt, not mayo; minced adana kebabs are frequent specials (sadly not available on my visit).
The menu's mainstay, and the most juicy-looking of the meaty options, is the rotisserie gyro. It's a close relative of the beef-lamb loaves you'll find everywhere in this city, but elevated and interesting enough to warrant a lunch of its own. The meat is less compact and more juicy, with spices that lift its flavor up rather than bowl it over. Your average gyro log is something of a salt lick; this is not.
It comes shaved and stuffed in a thin flatbread not unlike a flour tortilla, along with some of that cacik for creaminess and lettuce and tomato for crunch. Not a revolutionary sandwich, but a lunch to make you feel much better about getting picked as Juror Number Two.
88-38 Sutphin Boulevard, Jamaica, NY 11435 (map)