[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Rhong-Tiam's roti and noodles are the main draw to this Gramercy Thai favorite, but if you're looking for a way to bulk up your order, yuca fries ($7 for a quart-sized container) are a worthy addition. Their dense, starchy flesh turns custard-soft in the fryer, and the edges take on crispiness in layers. Dunk generously into the accompanying chili mayo: these fried tubers have a wonderful, unique texture, but a subtle flavor.

Rhong-Tiam Express

31 East 21st Street, New York NY 10010 (map)
212-420-7500
rhong-tiam.com

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.