Quail a la Plancha ($16)
A lot of fun to eat (and much less awkward than plenty of quail presentations I've seen), it's improved by a purée and small chunks of butternut squash, with pumpkin seeds and pancetta.
Garganelli verde ($17)
Garganelli with bolognese I'd eat any day, but when I can opt for garganelli with lamb bolognese and a blizzard of Pecorino, I'll go for the latter.
Linguini with clams: tasty. Linguini with clams, loads of garlic, chilies and breadcrumbs? Thrilling.
Charred Octopus ($18)
Never would never have occurred to me as a potential pepperoni partner. Two tentacles, braised in red wine (and thoroughly tenderized), then charred on the outside, spiral elegantly around each other. The colorful jumble underneath—toasted fregola, celery and parsley leaves, olives, pepperoni—integrates beautifully, the briny olives, the slight heat of the pepperoni.
Broccoli rabe ($8)
Joins sausage and herbs, breadcrumbs and a ton of garlic for a side that seems a composed meal in itself.
Arctic char ($26)
With pickled shallots and beautifully cooked hen-of-the-woods mushrooms.
Pumpkin cranberry budino ($9)
At the precise intersection of cold-weather comfort dessert and refined pastry, with apple vinegar caramel, creme fraiche mousse, and candied pecans.
L'Apicio is larger than Dell'Anima and L'Artusi, with seats for 180 (and more outside when the weather gets nicer). That includes an inner dining room that can seat up to 35 for private events.
Smaller walk-in tables for drinks and bites.