Quail a la Plancha ($16)
A lot of fun to eat (and much less awkward than plenty of quail presentations I've seen), it's improved by a purée and small chunks of butternut squash, with pumpkin seeds and pancetta.
Garganelli verde ($17)
Garganelli with bolognese I'd eat any day, but when I can opt for garganelli with lamb bolognese and a blizzard of Pecorino, I'll go for the latter.
Linguini with clams: tasty. Linguini with clams, loads of garlic, chilies and breadcrumbs? Thrilling.
Broccoli rabe ($8)
Joins sausage and herbs, breadcrumbs and a ton of garlic for a side that seems a composed meal in itself.
Arctic char ($26)
With pickled shallots and beautifully cooked hen-of-the-woods mushrooms.
Pumpkin cranberry budino ($9)
At the precise intersection of cold-weather comfort dessert and refined pastry, with apple vinegar caramel, creme fraiche mousse, and candied pecans.
Smaller walk-in tables for drinks and bites.