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[Photograph: Jessica Leibowitz]

You may remember when we tried The Bagel Store's bacon, egg and cheese bagel. But this Williamsburg bagel joint specializes in several other crazy bagel subspecies, so we went back for more. Our findings, listed in order of the photo above, top left to bottom right.

Salt and Vinegar: This bagel is for true salt lovers. Large salt crystals cover the bagel and the salt-vinegar combo permeates the soft, airy crumb. A relatively crisp crust makes this most similar to a traditional bagel.

Twinkie: A shiny glaze coats the exterior of this limited edition flavor. The crumb is cakey, like a snack cake in bagel form. The sticky, sweet exterior is crackly and gives way to a cake-like crumb that reminds us of any generic pre-packaged confection—but not in a good way.

Jalapeno: The same soft, chewy innards characterize this bagel but flecks of chopped-up jalapeno pack a spicy kick.

French Toast: A big step up from French toast sticks, this bagel is the essence of French toast on the go. The sweet, eggy bread has a dusting of powdered sugar on top, and the squishy soft crumb has the taste and texture of freshly made French toast.

Sweet Potato: Our favorite bagel in the tasting, the slightly vegetal sweet potato bread base is soft and fluffy, and a light sprinkling of crunchy sugar crystals on top makes this a great sweet-savory combo.

Bacon, Egg and Cheese: This ultimate hangover cure has bacon, egg and cheese baked directly into the bagel, as well as a generous amount of bacon bits and melted cheese on top. They go heavy on the pepper, and the super soft crumb laced with bacon fat reminds us a little of lard bread.

We take our bagels pretty seriously most of the time, so it's a nice change-up to find a place that's really having fun with stretching the limits of the bagel medium. Just know what you're getting into; these aren't variations on plain bagels. They take bagels as their starting points and go somewhere new.

The Bagel Store

247 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11211 (map)
718-218-7244

754 Metropolitan Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11211 (map)
718-782-5856
thebagelstoreonline.com

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