TGI Fry-Day

Explorations of the frying arts.

TGI Fry-Day: Cabbage Croquettes at The Queens Kickshaw

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[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Last year, The Queens Kickshaw was host to Woks and Lox a Jewish and Asian Christmas celebration cooked by none other than our own Chichi Wang. What does Jewish-Asian fusion cooking look like? Think pierogi wontons, matzo-crusted tofu, and Sichuan peppercorn latkes. Though Woks and Lox is over for now, these Cabbage Croquettes ($12) look like they're keeping the flame of Jewish-Asian fusion cooking alive, with an egg roll-like filling fried in a crust that tastes more like bubbie's kitchen than General Tso.

The pliant, delicate crust of these croquettes has a toasted buckwheat kind of flavor going on, with nutty cheese on top adds extra toastiness and crispiness. It's especially complementary to the buttery braised cabbage inside, which tastes just enough like egg roll filling to make you smile—without killing you with grease or MSG. Sweet roasted tomatoes and chunky cilantro pepper sauce move the three football-shaped croquettes in a decidedly spicy direction, a fresh heat reminiscent of harissa or s'chug. Chinese, Eastern European, and Middle Eastern/North African-esque all at once. Welcome to Astoria: this is how we do.

The Queens Kickshaw

40-17 Broadway, Astoria, NY 11103 (map)
718-777-0913
thequeenskickshaw.com

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

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