Eating Goats to Save Them: No Goat Left Behind
"I'm never really surprised by what people don't know in agriculture and food production because I didn't know either," says Erin Fairbanks, the coordinator behind No Goat Left Behind, a project of Heritage Foods USA. "Oftentimes people are so removed from food production, the really basic realities just aren't clear to us."
What are the basic realities behind goat farming? While there is a huge demand for and appreciation of goat milk, goat meat remains uncommon in the United States. Since half of the kids born to female goats are male, there is an excess of male goats that goat farmers have no market for. This means they are often forced to take measures they aren't proud of, like killing the goats at birth.
Liza de Guia met up with Fairbanks at Consider Bardwell Farm. "It's urgent for us to have an outlet to send these lovely creatures," says Consider Bardwell owner Angela Miller. "We want to create a demand for goat meat the way there is a demand for lamb...it really can be the new healthy low fat meat."
Enter No Goat Left Behind, and their spinoff project Goatober, which strives to get chefs and the general public to start putting goat on their tables. Fourteen farms and nearly one hundred restaurants have agreed to participate in the project, among them Serious Eats favorites like Parish Hall, Northern Spy Food Co., and Court Street Grocers.
"New Yorkers are ready for goat meat," Fairbanks believe, "just as they're always ready for something delicious with a great story and history."
You can learn more about Heritage USA's project No Goat Left Behind at their website.
Brooklyn Bouillon: Treating Bones Like the Gold of an Animal
"To a chef, bones are the gold of an animal. A good stock is the foundation for good cooking," says Rachael Mamane, founder of Brooklyn Bouillon, a Brooklyn company that makes artisanal stocks and demi-glaces. There are very few artisan-made stocks on the market, even though the quality of a stock is so important to the product. A supermarket stock is incomparable to an artisanal stock.
Her company is the "first stock and demi-glaces company that [is] sustainable and traceable to the farm." Mamane describes Brooklyn Bouillon as "for the home cook who cares where their ingredients come from." She creates her product with ingredients only from farms that maintain sustainable practices.
Her products are small-batch, and the name of the farm where the bones come from is on the label of every container of Brooklyn Bouillon stock. "You will taste a different profile from stocks that are made from animals that come from different farms," Mamane says.
You can learn more about Brooklyn Bouillon here.