Slideshow: The Pines: Brooklyn Cuisine Sets a Stake in Gowanus

'Apple' ($10)
'Apple' ($10)
Flavors were far more compelling than a glance would indicate. Its dressing is based on sheep’s milk yogurt and milk and tastes vividly of it, with just a bit of salt and balsamic, a creamy, tangy counterpart to the apples. Raw hibiscus leaf contributes to the tartness.
'Lettuce' ($12)
'Lettuce' ($12)
To me, it looks like a pretty unexciting deconstructed salad, a slightly fancied-up romaine wedge. But those bits that look like croutons? They're slowly rendered bits of guanciale, airy-light and dissolving between a crunch of the teeth to a pure bite of pig fat. Sound rich, against an eggy, oily dressing? It's egg yolk–based, for sure, but the yolks are tempered with heavy cream and then united with gelatin for a much less liquid, airier effect than you'd expect.
'Purslane' ($14)
'Purslane' ($14)
Greens precisely dressed with rice vinegar and good olive oil, chunks of compressed ogen melon and crunchy pistachios filling it out. Lardo drapes over the melon, and in the foreground, that's pistachio milk from fresh pistachios.
Bread ($4) pictured with Olives ($6)
Bread ($4) pictured with Olives ($6)
Loved the grain bread; loved the idea of toasting and oiling the crustier bread, but it ended up all crunch, like an oversized crouton.
Concord Grape granita
Concord Grape granita
Served as an amuse on our visit.
Agnolotti ($22)
Agnolotti ($22)
Delicate bundles of fatty, tender pork. The neck is deboned, cooked for 12 hours, then cold-smoked over pecan wood before it's whipped with straciatella, egg yolks, and pecorino for the filling.
Pork Shoulder ($21)
Pork Shoulder ($21)
Slow-cooked pork shoulder, pan-seared with butter, with wild goldenberries and raw macadamia nuts.
Short Rib ($17)
Short Rib ($17)
Cooked sous vide, pan-finished, served with new sweet potato puree, and wilted treviso and baby pencil leek.
Amaranth ($14)
Amaranth ($14)
Probably the best illustration of The Pines walking the border between interesting–good and interesting–just interesting. I quite enjoyed this porridge of sorts, the fine grain tasting strongly of pork and the 'nduja's various spices, with maitake mushrooms and gooseberries atop.
Banana gelato ($7)
Banana gelato ($7)
With 'nilla wafers and caramelized banana slices; a whipped sheep’s milk cheese, just lightly sweetened, added a creamy, tart element.
Interior
Interior
Exterior
Exterior