It's late afternoon and dinner is a few hours away. Where do you get a quick bite to carry you through the day? Afternoon Snack looks at quick bites to tide you over without spoiling dinner. Got a snack we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.

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[Photographs: Robyn Lee]

The Essex Street Market is full of treasures (Shopsin's and Beurre & Sel for starters), and the tiny Boubouki stall is another great addition to the list. Rona Economoum is cooking up some charming sweet and savory Greek specialties, including a fantastic Spanakopita ($4) and a satisfying Chickpea Salad ($4).

The spinach in the pie is as tender as it should be, but so bright with spinach flavor it tastes barely cooked at all. Mint adds dimension, and oil-slicked feta crumbles are honest expressions of dairy with a sweetness to balance the tang. I'm most impressed by the phyllo crust, flaky as can be but easy to cut through, buttery but not too greasy. It's an excellent snack.

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Boubouki's chickpea salad is minimalist: chickpeas with some parsley and feta in a dressing of chickpea broth, lemon juice, and olive oil. It's honest and forthright, the kind of simple home-cooked food I'd love to see more of from little stalls. True, the chickpeas themselves could have been cooked more thoroughly to cut the chalkiness from their centers, but for a low price and a bright, clear dressing, this pile of beans will see my fork again.

Boubouki

In the Essex Street Market
120 Essex Street, New York, NY, 10002 (map)
718-344-4202
bouboukinyc.com

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.

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