Serious Eats: New York
A Look at All Good Things, Tribeca's New Market and Food Hall
The building at 102 Franklin that houses All Good Things, the new craft food market in Tribeca, hasn't seen much food action in its time. Since 1947 it housed Freund, Freund and Co., Inc, a ticks and tickings company that supplied to the booming textile industry in NYC until its profits dropped significantly due to increased manufacturing in China. Opened in 1845 and run by the Freund family through five generations, the building was sold to the family of architect Kyle Wittels, who knew they wanted to turn the space into something special.
Wittels designed a simple, open market, and brought in eight top-quality purveyors to fill it: All Good Things Fish and Produce Stand, Blue Bottle Coffee, Blue Marble Ice Cream, Cavaniola's Gourmet Cheese Shop, Dickson's Farmstand Meats, Nunu Chocolates, Orwasher's Artisan Bakery, and Polux Fleuriste. In October it will also house a small restaurant run by Fish and Produce stand's Ryan Tate, with a seasonal tasting menu around $70.
Before you've even made it to the food, Polux Fleuriste decks out the space with artistically-crafted bouquets, dried flowers and kitchen goodies.
At All Good Things Fish and Produce Stand Tate picks seasonal and exciting ingredients and discards trends for simply what's good right now. Ask him about the particulars of a certain fish and he'll give you tips on different ways to prepare it, whether head-to-tail or smartly fileted. At Blue Bottle Coffee, don't ask for what they specialize in, because the answer is, "what's your poison?" They drip cups to order, have a full espresso menu, and ice coffee separately.
Blue Marble Ice Cream was founded by friends Alexis and Jenny out of Brooklyn in 2007 with the idea of sustainable, organic, super-premium ice cream in mind. Now they produce out of Sunset Park and make sorbets and a dairy-free coconut-milk option as well ($4.89 for a single cone).
Michael Cavianola of Cavaniola's Gourmet Cheese Shop grew up in the business, helping alongside his father as a kid in Jersey. Now out of Sag Harbor he adds dried fruit, creamy yogurt and hand-pressed sandwiches to his variety of gourmet cheeses at this location, and carves prosciutto with amazing skill.
An output of their Chelsea Market location, Dickson's Farmstand owner Jacob Dickson is still figuring out what works best for Tribeca, but the quality of the meat is on par with the northern location, including cuts and animals you won't find at most butcher counters.
At Orwashers, owner Keith Cohen offers a variety of artisan breads averaging about $4.50 a loaf, with classics such as New York Rye and pumpernickel on the menu alongside Chardonnay Miche and Cabernet Rustica. He focuses on time-tested methods of preparation, using top-notch ingredients and hand-shaping each loaf. They also offer strudels, cookies, and freshly-filled donuts.
And just in time for the chilly weather, Nunu Chocolates pours a warm cocoa ($2-$5) and offers it shredded in a bag for home ($12 for 10oz). Wife-and-husband team Justine and Andy use a single-origin cocoa bean from a sustainable family farm in Columbia, and have a variety of ganaches, bars, caramels, nibs and grahams on site.
Aside from the eats at All Good Things, Wittel collected an impressive roster of personalities. Check out the slideshow for some particularly interesting goods up for purchase, and some of the faces you may encounter on any given day.
All Good Things
102 Franklin Street, New York, NY 10013 (map)
About the author: Jacqueline Raposo is a writer and frantic private cook who wants to live above All Good Things. She's alternatively baking at www.thedustybaker.com and tweeting away at @dustybakergal.