[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

When you live in a Greek neighborhood, the Greek salad is your default salad, and you get a little picky about how it should really be: large hunks of crisp cucumber and ripe tomato, minimally seasoned and laced with a drip of olive oil, topped with large bricks of stanky feta, a very small amount of oregano, and maybe a couple olives. There are variations, of course: peppers sometimes, or onion, or some vinegar thrown into dressing. But no lettuce, no heavy dressings, and everything cut into pretty substantial chunks.

By most of these measures, the Greek Salad ($9.66) at GRK in the Financial District doesn't fly. But as a tasty ten buck pile of fresh vegetables in a neighborhood desperate for healthy, affordable lunches that don't suck? It's a fine thing. The tomatoes (plump and juicy, if not spectacular) are cut reasonably large, along with substantial cubes of feta that are likewise a level above. Thinly sliced cucumber, bell pepper, and onion get a little lost in the dressing, but they retain their crispness after travel, not wilty in the least.

This is not a perfect Greek Salad, but nearby lunchers would do well to eat it alongside a rather nice gyro, or on its own for a filling but light lunch.


111 Fulton St, New York, NY 10038 (map)

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.


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