A Sandwich a Day: Catfish at Van Horn in Cobble Hill
In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
Massive fried chicken sandwiches and creamy pimento cheese may be the big draw at Southern sandwich shop Van Horn in Cobble Hill, but I'm pretty happy with the more demure Catfish ($11), which is satisfying in heft but light enough to leave some room for dessert (Steve's key lime pie is on the menu!).
The fry job is lighter on the fish than the chicken, letting its tender, mild flavor come through with a hint of pepper. A crunchy slaw is similarly light on the seasoning, more about textural contrast than sour or salt, but it moistens the toasted roll just right. Using "light" three times in a sandwich description may hint of "boring," and that'd be the case but for the tartar sauce on the side, full of brine and tang and full-bodied creaminess that you'll want to slather on the fish, slaw, bread, pie...
Okay, so not that last one. But you get the idea. Well-fried, delicately flavored fish plus a big bright dressing: it's not just not fried chicken.