Fried calamari roll ($6)
On the happy hour menu, and a highlight of the evening. Piled on a sesame seed bun with tartar sauce and lettuce, it made for an excellent sandwich that would've sufficed as a plate without the bun, too. (I'd come back and eat it either way.)
Sausage roll ($6)
Of the "sausage, on roll" sort, not the British pastry-wrapped sort. The flavors (pork meets spice) and various components (caramelized onions, mustard) were dead-on, but the texture was a little dry and a little mealy. As a $6 bar snack, no complaints, but it lacked the precision some other dishes showed.
A list that runs toward the boozy and contemporary.
Anchovy fritters ($5)
Sage leaves sandwich around the fish, plump and crisp and salty in the sort of batter you'd use for fish and chips.
Cornichon nuggets ($5)
Panko-crusted with blue cheese dip.
Lemon-based silky ricotta, with olive oil, salt and pepper, and their excellent crusty bread.
Tripe chips ($6)
They varied in texture, but all gave a substantial crunch (some had more stretchy, gelatinous innards than others.)
"Potted duck" ($11)
A more-than-sufficient cap of pure melty fat atop well-seasoned duck rillettes was a mighty tasty thing to slather on bread, and a parsley-tomato salad, particularly with mid-September's exquisite sweet tomatoes, a lovely thing to cut the richness with.
Cardoon & chili soup ($8)
Rich and earthy and punctuated by a drizzle of olive oil on top.
Delicata squash ($11)
It steams beneath its crackling tempura shell, only made more appealing with honey and a shower of grated Pecorino.
Beet and plum salad ($14)
With gorgonzola and walnuts and puntarelle it's a tasty thing, but seemed a bit predictable and pricey.