[Photograph: Max Falkowitz]

Though I've loved virtually everything I've tasted at Kin Shop, this fried chicken special (half chicken for $25) may be a new winner. Moist, perfectly seasoned meat is a given. A sweet, savory, tart and spicy nam pla is the kind of subtle but exacting accent sauce that Harold Dieterle and his crew deliver again and again. And a green curry nam prik paste adds jolts of intensity to keep every bite engaging.

These are the things that make a very good fried chicken dish. The crust, a fractal pattern of crisp without a trace grease, makes it a great one. It's a delicate dredge that forms perfect pockets of skin, adding tons of crunch without the weight of a thick crust. The sauces take well to it, but the best sauce for the skin is within the chicken itself. Bite carefully; juice spurts.

The recurring special is currently on the menu, but may disappear soon. The chicken can also be ordered by special request when placing your reservation.

Kin Shop

469 6th Avenue, New York, NY 10011 (map)

About the author: Max Falkowitz is the editor of Serious Eats: New York. You can follow him on Twitter at @maxfalkowitz.


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