Though I've loved virtually everything I've tasted at Kin Shop, this fried chicken special (half chicken for $25) may be a new winner. Moist, perfectly seasoned meat is a given. A sweet, savory, tart and spicy nam pla is the kind of subtle but exacting accent sauce that Harold Dieterle and his crew deliver again and again. And a green curry nam prik paste adds jolts of intensity to keep every bite engaging.
These are the things that make a very good fried chicken dish. The crust, a fractal pattern of crisp without a trace grease, makes it a great one. It's a delicate dredge that forms perfect pockets of skin, adding tons of crunch without the weight of a thick crust. The sauces take well to it, but the best sauce for the skin is within the chicken itself. Bite carefully; juice spurts.
The recurring special is currently on the menu, but may disappear soon. The chicken can also be ordered by special request when placing your reservation.