A Sandwich A Day: Pollo Torta at Cascabel
In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
Fancy taco places often kill the very things that make taquerias so great—speed, bold flavors, and value get lost in a sea of happy hour margaritas and "fusion" dishes. Cascabel Taqueria may be guilty of some of these transgressions, but at lunchtime they put out a solid, slightly more upscale torta that arrives quickly and, frankly, tastes delicious. We already enjoyed their Pork Cemita; here's their chicken sandwich.
Upon unwrapping the Pollo Torta ($9) you notice the sesame seed bun (a far cry from real torta bread). Reserve judgment until you take a bite. Though the bread ratio is a bit high, the shredded chicken is nicely saturated with a chipotle adobo sauce, which is plenty smoky without drowning out the rest of the fillings. In addition to the chicken, the sandwich also features a soft, creamy black bean spread that might be the torta's highlight. Queso fresco, mayo, serrano relish, lettuce, and onion join the two stars to finish off the intensely flavorful, if a bit salty, torta. Sure, it's not the $5 number from the local taco truck, but quality ingredients and great flavor justify Cascabel's pricey and slightly unconventional rendition.