Focaccia de Recco ($7)
Homemade focaccia, stuffed with stracchino di Recco, a fresh cow's milk cheese that is used as a focaccia filling in Recco (near Genoa).
Cabbages, pecorino, chilies ($5)
Dressed with chili oil and lemon juice, with pecorino and slivered almonds.
Beets, dandelion, hazelnuts ($5)
Dressed with orange juice, honey, red wine vinegar, and olive oil, with bits of hazelnut in there too.
A cooked jumble of eggplant, celery, onions, sweet peppers, and tomato, along with olives, golden raisins, and pine nuts.
The dining room, before it starts to fill up.
Housemade mozzarella ($10)
Made daily, it's delicate and supple, jiggly almost like a custard, tasting purely and powerfully of fresh milk. It's garnished with olive oil, salt and Tuscan basil; and it's a must-order.
Delicate but slightly firm little rolls of pasta, freshly made and tasting it, with fresh peas and creamy ricotta. (The best bite gets all three on the fork.)
With broccoli rabe, chilies, and clumps of sausage riding along. It's a well-proportioned dish, with each little ear cradling sausage bits, just as it should be.
West 10th Street
Rosemary's is all glass on two sides, flooding the room with light during earlier hours (and making for great people-watching later in the night).