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[Awful iPhone photo: Carey Jones]

Between The Hungry Ghost on Flatbush and St. Mark's, and Bklyn Larder now serving breakfast across the street, this little corner of Park Slope / Prospect Heights / Atlantic Terminal (I'm sure there will be a portmanteau for that soon—ParProTer? ParkLantic Heights?) is getting better and better in breakfast options.

I have a complicated relationship with Bklyn Larder in that I love basically everything they make, bake, or stock, but can't make a habit out of buying $9-pint ice cream or $29/lb cheeses. So it's a very pleasant surprise that their breakfast menu is gently priced. What's not surprising: that it's all excellent.

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In a neighborhood where I've seen $10 breakfast sandwiches, I'm more than happy to shell out $4.50 for this cheddar & scallion frittata sandwich, whose egg is indeed rich with cheddar and cooked to a quivering just-set patty that's pretty ideal in a biscuit. And man, that biscuit: it's not exactly classic, wide and short with a glossy brown top, but it's insanely buttery and as flaky as you could wish. I don't know whether I'd rather eat the two together, or just have this biscuit all on its own. (It's rich and salty enough that the egg doesn't make it richer or saltier.)

You can add ham or bacon for another $1. While our bacon (Burger's Smokehouse) was awesome, thick-cut and fatty-smoky in all the right ways, a sandwich already this rich doesn't need it.

Bklyn Larder bakes those biscuits along with their own breakfast pastries. While we've often lamented the lack of good coffee cake in New York—so much great crumb out there, so much bad cake!—the Larder's coffee cake ($2.00; pictured at top) is rich and moist all the way through, the rare specimen whose cake is as good as the crumb. Though I'd have a hard time choosing between that and the cinnamon doughnut ($1.50), airy in the middle, golden and sugar-crunchy around the edges. (Last time I stopped by, truth be told, I went for both.)

Bklyn Larder

228 Flatbush Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11217 (b/n Bergen and St. Marks; map)
718-783-1250
bklynlarder.com

About the author: Carey Jones is the Senior Managing Editor of Serious Eats. Follow her on Twitter (@careyjones).

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