Editor's Note: July is Ice Cream Month on Serious Eats: New York! To celebrate, we're spotlighting a scoop we love every day.
We've touted Melt Bakery before as one of the one of the best ice cream sandwiches in the city, but it's worth an extra mention to spotlight their Thai Fighter ($4), which features chili chocolate ice cream between crisp-chewy curry coconut cookies. I don't think it's overly hyperbolic to call it one of the best-fitting ice cream sandwich combinations out there.
Most chili-spiked ice creams deliver more heat than flavor, but Melt's is made with habanero peppers, which strike in layers and have enough fruity flavor to bring out the lighter notes in the chocolate. The cookies are no slackers, delivering roasted, nutty coconut flavor brightened just enough by musky curry powder. The sandwich as a whole is all about the interplay of sweet, spicy, and nutty, with multiple flavors in each category. It's hard enough for an ice cream sandwich to balance one-note ice cream and cookie elements; the Thai Fighter juggles four main ingredients admirably well.