20120607-209690-Mexico2000chimichanga.jpg

[Photographs: Scarlett Lindeman]

As ragged as Mexico 2000 may look from the outside, it's a shining example of a perfect and prototypical New York City Mexican bodega: a multifunctional hub to buy lotto tickets, condoms, and cheap toilet paper; a shop to pick up ripe tomatoes, skunky papalo, and dried beans to cook at home; and a place to sit down, pop a litro of Corona familiar, and have a delicious and cheap meal.

20120507-209690-Mexico2000tostada.jpg

The proprietor, a genial woman from Puebla, opened the eponymous bodega in 2000. The taqueria in back is as basic as they come, offering tacos, tortas, huaraches, sopes, and simple plates of meat with rice and beans using the ingredients you can buy up front. The salsas don't sock you in the face like you might have been hoping, but the meat is hot and fresh, the lettuce crisp and clean, and if the avocados were any more ripe, they would collapse into guacamole themselves.

20120607-209690-mexico2000storefront.jpg

The menu extends to bowls of chilaquiles, platters of enchiladas, and tostadas ($3), flat as a tabletop, spread with a thick layer of larded beans, meat, and piles of lettuce. They'll throw your burrito into the deep-fryer, turning it into a golden chimichanga ($6.99). All of the tacos ($2.50) come heaped with lettuce, tomato, crema, and cheese, though if you're a purist, I'm sure you can omit the toppings.

The chorizo, is a marvel: scarlet colored, aggressively seasoned, and so finely ground it resembles small pebbles. The sausage crumbles are crisped on the plancha and speak of sweet chili, cinnamon, and garlic.

20120607-209690-mexico2000chorizotaco.jpg

It's worth inquiring about daily specials: workers and family members always seem to be tucking into hearty chicken soups and beefy stews that aren't on the menu.

Mexico 2000

367 Broadway Brooklyn, NY 11211 (map)
718-782-3797

About the author: Scarlett Lindeman is a cook, food-writer, and recipe editor of Diner Journal, a food/arts quarterly. E-mail her at scarlett.lindeman@gmail.com.

Comments

Comments can take up to a minute to appear - please be patient!

Previewing your comment: