A Sandwich a Day: Veal Meatball at Donatella
In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.
Why get a sandwich at a straight-up pizza place? Maybe you want a higher filling-to-starch ratio without committing to the intensity of a calzone (and yes, when it comes to pizza, sandwiches are often the low-carb alternative on the menu). And at Donatella, a high filling to crust ratio can be a very good thing when meatballs are involved.
The veal meatball sandwich ($12) is basically a meatball delivery system. The thin bread, sort of a pita made from pizza dough, makes a well-charred pocket for delicate, tender (surprising given the absence of bread crumbs) all-veal meatballs in a bright tomato sauce with a blitz of pecorino. Smoked mozzarella gets wonderfully oozy, and chili oil adds a touch of depth (though ignorable heat). It's actually a sandwich enhanced by the accompanying arugula salad: it's bright enough to make the whole sandwich seem light.
Sandwiches are only offered for lunch from noon to 4. If you need a meatball fix, and don't want to go through the bread bomb of a pizza or a hero roll, this one is for you.