Pizza at Joe's Pizza and John's of Bleecker Street
But Joe's is practically a baby compared to nearby John's of Bleecker Street, which first shoveled coal into its brick ovens in 1929. Here the very notion of a slice is literally frowned upon (pies only) and the gorgeous melty rounds make a strong case for abandoning slice joints altogether. No matter what toppings you choose, each pie ($14.50 small, $16.50 large) is elevated by brightly flavored sauce flaunting a touch of sweetness.
Croque Forestier at Buvette
But The hearty Croque Forestier ($10) dips back into gutbomb territory. Available after 11 PM, the open-faced sandwich hides a mix of mushrooms and herbs under its burnished brown roux crown. Though not exactly healthy, the substitution of vegetables in place of ham brings a bit of lightness to the dish.
Pub Burger at Tavern on Jane
Testicargot at Takashi
Crostini at Corsino
The chicken liver crostino is smooth and delicious, light on the liver taste, but it still satisfied our Nasty Bits columnist Chichi, an offal lover if ever there was one. Stay away from the pink trout mousse, which isn't all that interesting or special.
Hot Dog at Gray's Papaya
402 6th Avenue, New York, NY 10011 (map); Open Until: 24 hours, 7 days; 212-260-3532