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A Sandwich A Day: Achari Chicken Kati Roll at Roomali

In this great city of ours, one could eat a different sandwich every day of the year—so that's what we'll do. Here's A Sandwich a Day, our daily look at sandwiches around New York. Got a sandwich we should check out? Let us know. —The Mgmt.

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[Photograph: Jessica Leibowitz]

If you've never tried Indian pickles (achar) before, you're in for a trip. They lie at the intersection of tangy, fruity, funky, and often powerfully spicy for a flavor unlike anything else. You most frequently see Indian pickles as one of several relishes, chutneys, and sauces served aside starchy mains like rice and breads, but sometimes the thick pickle paste (less a brine than a mix of oil and spices) is spread on meat as a sauce.

Such is the case with the Achari Chicken kati roll ($6) at Roomali in Murray Hill. Reasonably moist chunks of chicken are rubbed down with achar paste, then rolled up in a freshly griddled roti wrap. The achar takes center stage: nowhere near as wickedly hot or tangy as Indian pickles can get, it's a bright, slightly fruity accompaniment to the mild chicken. The best kati roll in the city? No, but I haven't seen too many versions with achar around this part of town, and that mix of tangy, earthy, and slightly sweet is plenty tantalizing all on its own.

Roomali

97 Lexington Ave, New York 10016 (map)
212-679-8900

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