Other dishes feature proteins in more prominent roles, like guinea fowl ($15) with acheke. Whole fish is served both steamed (owner recommended) and fried ($13), its skin cooked to supreme crispness. Served with a fresh tomato, onion and cucumber salad tossed in vinaigrette and reminiscent of Mediterranean cuisine, both are tasty.
Additional heat comes by way of “pepper." Three varieties of the fiery West African chili sambal, an indispensable condiment, are available here: dry-burn inducing mustard, potent black, and a brighter, tomato-heavy red.
860 Melrose Avenue, Bronx NY 10451 (map); 718-401-2283
Fauzia's Heavenly Delights
Mixed in with rice and vegetables, the grilled fish has a pronounced aquatic flavor with a hint of smokiness. It’s some of the best you’ll get from a cart. Chicken comes curried (Tue/Thu), stewed (Tue), barbecue-style (Tue), or jerked (Mon/Fri). Vegetarian offerings include a refreshing stir-fried mock chicken (Tues/Fri), tofu cooked in a sweet chili sauce, and tofu tiki masala (Wed). Main dishes (sm. $6, md. $7, lg. $8) come with two vegetable sides. Options include collard greens, hearty lentils, okra with tomato and corn, and spinach and black eyed peas. For those disinterested in forks, an order can be packed into a pita (everyday) or roti (Tuesday). When temperatures climb into the 90s, Fauzia introduces a cold food menu.
Banana Pudding from Fauzia's
Served with a plate of fluffy white rice and chunks of bobbing lamb, the mafe could rank among the city’s best. Its not just an advertisement for Skippy, though, and the all-too-often overwhelming (unsweetened) peanut butter flavor is mild and tempered by a rich creaminess that retains the grittiness of its nutty source. The cheb, jollof rice topped with stewed carrots, fish, cassava, cabbage, and eggplant, is highlighted by the tasty vegetables. Okra soup, too, will satisfy naysayers.
For those in need of a caffeine jolt, El Nuevo Noble, seemingly like any of the Latin diners that pepper Boricua, offers café con leche ($1) that’s superior to any of the bodega brews nearby.
218 East 170th Street, Bronx, NY 10456 (map); 718-401-2283
Utensils come along for the ride, but doing things right requires a more playful attitude: rip off shreds of your given starch and use it scoop up the soup. “Pepper” (shitor din in Ga) comes in two varieties—a fishier black and fresher red—is, as always, a necessary addition.
For sure, better Ghanaian fare can be had further uptown, at such places as Ebe Ye Yie, Sankoofa, and the 183rd Street and Grand Concourse location of Papaye. If it's Ghanaian food you’re after and you’ve got to keep it close, you won’t be remiss to find yourself on McClellan Street.
196 McClellan Street, Bronx, NY(map) ; 718-681-3240
The Feeding Tree
Escovitch fish ($13), or fried red snapper, is served with a salad of cabbage, orange bell pepper, corn, and pickled jalapeno. The skin is oily, with some very subtle heat, and the best meat is found on the underbelly. While the jerk chicken ($8.25) is disappointingly cool and unrecommendable, both the curried goat ($8.25)—tender meat in a buttery, green gravy—and ox tail ($10.50), which carries more then its fair share of fat, are good. Each entrée (for more variety ask for half-portions) comes with a cabbage-heavy salad, a fried plantain, rice and beans, and cornbread.
892 Gerard Ave, Bronx NY 10452 (map); 718-293-5025